How To Restring A Lacrosse Head: A Master Stringer’s Step-by-Step Guide

Restringing a lacrosse head requires establishing consistent channel tension, symmetrical knotting, and precise pocket placement to maximize ball control and release accuracy. By masterfully executing the top string, pulling the sidewalls tight to create a defined channel, and fine-tuning the shooting strings, you can craft a highly responsive pocket that remains legal under NCAA and NFHS regulations. Consistently maintaining tight, balanced knots is the foundation of a pocket that will not bag out or lose its shape under extreme playing conditions.

Anatomy of a Head, Tools, and Pre-Stringing Preparation

Before weaving any strings, you must understand how the physical geometry of your lacrosse head dictates the pocket's behavior. The top rail (scoop) determines your top string alignment, while the sidewall rails feature a series of holes designed to anchor your sidewall strings. The spacing and location of these sidewall holes dictate where you can bunch mesh to create a low, mid, or high pocket.

To achieve a professional-grade restring, your physical workspace must be organized, and your materials must be prepped. Never attempt to string a head with worn-out strings or unstretched mesh, as this will lead to rapid pocket shifting and inconsistent throwing.

Essential Gear, Tools, and Specifications

• Primary Materials: One piece of premium 10-diamond lacrosse mesh (semi-soft or semi-hard), one top string (typically 30 inches of durable braided nylon), two sidewall strings (approx. 30 inches each), one bottom string (approx. 18 inches), and two to three shooting strings/nylons (approx. 32 inches each).
• Mandatory Tools: Needle-nose pliers (for pulling knots tight and feeding strings through narrow plastic holes), a butane lighter (for melting cut string ends to prevent fraying), a pair of heavy-duty scissors, and a standard lacrosse ball for pocket pocket pocket-shaping.
• Prerequisite Knowledge: Mastery of basic stringing knots—specifically the Anchor Knot, Standard Interlock (SI), Knotted Interlock (KSI), and Double Interlock.
• Estimated Duration: 45 to 60 minutes for experienced stringers; 90 minutes for beginners.
• Material Budget: $15 to $35 depending on the brand of mesh and string kit selected.

The Step-by-Step Lacrosse Head Stringing Process

Step 1: Pre-Stretching and Orienting the Mesh

To ensure your pocket does not bag out illegally during your first wet practice, you must pre-stretch the mesh. Hold the mesh piece at both ends and pull outward with significant force. Work your way down the mesh, stretching each row of diamonds horizontally and vertically.

Next, identify the correct orientation of the mesh. Lacrosse mesh has a rough side and a smooth side. Run your fingers across the surface; the side where the horizontal nylon ribs feel smooth and flat must face the inside of the pocket (where the ball rests) to facilitate a clean, frictionless release. The rough side must face outward. Ensure you locate the 9-diamond row at the top of the mesh piece to anchor your top string. Fold the first row of 9 diamonds down over the second row to create a clean, doubled-over edge for maximum top-string durability.

Step 2: Executing a Perfect 9-Diamond Top String

The top string is the foundation of your pocket's channel and symmetry. A loose top string causes the mesh to slide, resulting in unpredictable release points and legal issues.

1. Tie a secure overhand anchor knot at one end of your top string, leaving a small, melted tail.
2. Start from the outside of the head, feeding the string through the top-most sidewall hole on one side. Pull it tight.
3. Thread the string through the first folded-over mesh diamond of the 9-diamond row from the back to the front.
4. Loop the string up and through the first scoop hole from the front of the head to the back.
5. Bring the string around the plastic scoop, pass it back through the same mesh diamond from front to back, and then pull it up through the loop you created before entering the scoop hole. This forms a standard lock knot. Pull it exceptionally tight.
6. Repeat this locking sequence across the remaining scoop holes, aligning the mesh diamonds to the corresponding holes in the scoop. Ensure the mesh remains perfectly centered and symmetrical.
7. Once you reach the final scoop hole, pass the string through the final mesh diamond, feed it through the top sidewall hole on the opposite side, and secure it with a double overhand knot. The top string must be drum-tight with zero slack.

Warning: If your top string can be pushed down more than a quarter of an inch away from the plastic scoop, it is too loose. A loose top string will ruin your pocket's channel tension, causing the ball to click off the plastic scoop when throwing.

Step 3: Setting Up Channel Tension (The Sidewall String)

The sidewall string controls the horizontal tension of the mesh, which creates the "channel" (the path the ball travels as it leaves the pocket). To create a highly accurate stick, the upper portion of the sidewall must be pulled incredibly tight.

1. Tie an anchor knot at the end of your sidewall string and feed it through the top sidewall hole (the same hole where your top string is tied off, or the one immediately below it) from the inside out.
2. Tie a secure anchor knot around the plastic rail to lock the string in place.
3. To pull the mesh tight to the plastic, use a series of Knotted Interlocks (KSI) or Standard Interlocks (SI). To tie an SI: Pass the string through the inside of the mesh diamond, then through the outside of the desired sidewall hole, and finally loop the string back through the loop created before the sidewall hole.
4. For the first 3 to 4 sidewall holes, pull the mesh down as tightly as possible. Do not bunch the mesh yet. This creates the tight channel near the top of the head that prevents the ball from rattling side-to-side.

Step 4: Shifting and Bunching Mesh to Form the Pocket

To create the actual pocket (the deep cradle where the ball sits), you must transition from pulling the mesh tight to bunching multiple mesh diamonds onto a single section of the sidewall rail. This is achieved using "1s", "2s", or "stacked" knots.

1. To create a standard mid-pocket, execute a "1" or "2" knot. A "1" means you thread the sidewall string through one mesh diamond without locking it to the plastic, then immediately thread it through the next mesh diamond and lock that to the next sidewall hole (often noted as a "1i" or "1-interlock").
2. To create a deeper pocket, execute a "2" by threading the string through two consecutive mesh diamonds before running the string through the next sidewall hole and tying a locking interlock. This bunches the mesh together, forcing the fabric to expand outward and create a natural bag.
3. Once the pocket area is formed, transition back to standard interlocks to taper the bottom of the mesh toward the throat of the head.
4. Tie off the sidewall string on a lower sidewall hole using a secure tie-off knot (a double overhand knot pulled flush against the plastic rail). Repeat this exact sequence on the opposite sidewall, ensuring perfect mirror symmetry.

Pro-Tip: Symmetrical hole selection is mandatory. If you use the 4th, 6th, and 8th sidewall holes on the left side, you must use the 4th, 6th, and 8th holes on the right side. Any asymmetry will cause the stick to throw pull-hooks to one side.

Step 5: Anchoring the Bottom String

The bottom string regulates the maximum depth of your pocket and prevents the ball from slipping out of the bottom of the head.

1. Feed your bottom string through one of the throat holes from the back of the head to the front.
2. Weave the string horizontally through the designated bottom row of mesh diamonds (typically a 10-diamond row).
3. Feed the string back through the opposite throat hole.
4. Push a lacrosse ball into the deepest part of the pocket and pull the bottom string tight.
5. Adjust the bottom string until the pocket depth is legal. Under NCAA and NFHS rules, the top of a regulation lacrosse ball must not sit below the bottom edge of the sidewall plastic when viewed horizontally at eye level.
6. Secure both ends of the bottom string with double overhand knots.

Step 6: Weaving Shooting Strings for Release and Whip

Shooting strings (shooters) and nylon wefts act as the runway for the ball, determining the smooth transition of the ball out of the pocket and adding "whip" (downward hook on release). Under current NFHS and NCAA rules, all shooting strings must be straight across and located within 4 inches of the top of the scoop (measured from the top-most plastic). U-shaped or V-shaped shooters are illegal in boys' field lacrosse.

1. Locate the first row of mesh diamonds below your top string. This is where your first nylon shooter or lace will go.
2. Feed the shooter through the sidewall plastic or around the sidewall string at one side of the head.
3. Weave the shooter across the mesh using a "weaving" pattern: over one diamond, under the next, while wrapping a second parallel string in the opposite direction (over-under-over-under) so they twist around each diamond.
4. Keep the tension of the top shooter relatively snug.
5. Weave a second shooting string one or two diamond rows below the first. Keep this second shooter slightly looser than the top shooter. This step-down tension ensures a smooth transition and prevents the ball from hooking aggressively on release.
6. Tie off both shooters on the outside of the head with soft, adjustable knots (like a square knot) so you can easily fine-tune them on the field.

Lacrosse Mesh Types and Pocket Specifications

Selecting the correct mesh and pocket placement is vital for optimizing performance based on your on-field position and playstyle.

Common Stringing Failures and Field Adjustments

Scenario 1: The Ball Clicks on the Scoop and Drags Downward (Excessive Whip)

• Root Cause: The bottom shooting string is woven too tightly, or the pocket has bagged out too deeply near the throat, causing the ball to hook onto the shooter instead of rolling smoothly off the scoop.
• Actionable Fix: Untie your lowest shooting string and loosen its tension significantly. If the issue persists, tighten your bottom string by one diamond row to pull the pocket up, or tighten your top string to flatten the transition zone near the scoop.

Scenario 2: The Pocket is Illegally Deep (Ball Sits Below the Sidewall Rail)

• Root Cause: The mesh has stretched out after intense use or exposure to moisture, or the bottom string was tied off with too much slack.
• Actionable Fix: Loosen the knots on your bottom string. Pull the string tighter to draw the mesh upward toward the throat, reducing the vertical space inside the bag. Re-tie the knots firmly. If the mesh is completely blown out, you must tighten the lowest two sidewall interlocks.

Scenario 3: The Ball Rattles and Lacks Directional Accuracy (No Channel)

• Root Cause: The upper sidewall stringing is too loose. If you do not pull the first three to four mesh diamonds tightly to the sidewall rail, the channel will be too wide, allowing the ball to shift horizontally during the passing motion.
• Actionable Fix: Untie your sidewall strings down to the third hole. Re-string this section using Knotted Interlocks (KSI), using pliers to pull each knot with maximum tension before anchoring it to the plastic. Ensure the mesh is locked flush against the inside of the rail.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between semi-soft and semi-hard mesh?

Semi-soft mesh is highly pliable, breaks in almost instantly, and offers excellent ball-feel and cushioning upon catching. Semi-hard mesh features a thicker outer coating, requiring a longer break-in period but offering superior pocket shape retention, weather resistance, and a more consistent, snappy release during high-velocity shots.

How do I legal-test my lacrosse pocket?

To perform a legal pocket-depth test, hold your stick horizontally at eye level with a regulation lacrosse ball inside the pocket. If you can see any light between the top edge of the ball and the bottom edge of the sidewall plastic, the pocket is too deep and is illegal. Additionally, perform a "roll-out" test by tilting the stick forward; the ball must roll out of the scoop freely without catching on the plastic or the shooting strings.

Why is my lacrosse stick throwing directly into the ground?

This problem, known as "hooking" or having "too much whip," is caused by your shooting strings being too tight relative to the rest of your pocket. The tight shooting strings trap the ball, preventing it from releasing cleanly. To fix this, loosen your lowest shooting string, or remove it entirely, to create a smoother exit path for the ball.

How many shooting strings are legal in boys' lacrosse?

Under current NCAA and NFHS boys' lacrosse regulations, you can use any number of shooting strings, but they must all be straight across (no U or V shapes) and must be located within 4 inches of the top of the scoop. Typically, players use two straight shooting strings or one nylon shooter and one lace shooter to balance smooth release with optimal feel.

Elevate Your Game with a Custom-Strung Pocket

Mastering the art of restringing your lacrosse head gives you a distinct competitive advantage, allowing you to fine-tune your channel tension and pocket depth to match your specific style of play. Grab a fresh mesh kit and start customizing your pocket today to unlock ultimate passing accuracy and shooting power on the field.