Master The Knit Front Back (KFB) Increase: The Complete Technical Guide To Perfect Stitch Shaping
To execute a knit front back (KFB) increase, insert your right needle into the front loop of the designated stitch and knit it without dropping it from the left needle, then swing the right needle tip around to knit into the back loop of the same stitch before releasing it. This classic bar increase adds exactly one stitch to your needle, leaving a structural horizontal bump at the base of the second stitch. Mastering this foundational technique allows you to shape raglan sweaters, shawls, and structured garments with clean, predictable tension and perfect symmetry.
Essential Materials and Prerequisite Skills for KFB Shaping
Integrating a knit front back increase into your project requires an understanding of stitch anatomy and how fiber elasticity affects fabric density. Unlike lifted or yarn-over increases, the KFB is a loop-twisting increase that borrows yarn directly from an existing stitch. Before implementing this stitch on a complex garment, review the following material requirements and benchmark guidelines to ensure clean results.
Essential Tools and Materials
- Knitting Needles: Use the needle size specified by your pattern. Sharp lace-tip needles (circular or straight) make accessing the back loop of the stitch significantly easier than blunt-tipped wooden needles.
- Yarn: Practice with a highly elastic, multi-ply fiber such as worsted-weight wool or wool-blend yarn. Highly inelastic fibers like cotton, linen, or single-ply acrylic can make working into the back loop of a stitch challenging for beginners.
- Stitch Markers: Place markers directly before or after your increase stitches to maintain accurate stitch counts across complex repeating pattern sections.
Mandatory Prerequisite Knowledge
- Stitch Mount Awareness: You must be able to identify the front leg (the portion of the loop sitting on the front of the left needle) and the back leg (the portion sitting behind the needle) of an active knit stitch.
- Basic Knit Stitch (K): Absolute mastery of the standard knit stitch is required, as the KFB is essentially two knit stitches performed in rapid succession on a single loop.
- Tension Regulation: Understanding how to hold the working yarn to prevent the active loop from stretching out of shape during needle rotation is critical for preventing loose stitches.
Technical Benchmarks
- Difficulty Rating: Advanced Beginner.
- Execution Time: Approximately 3 to 5 seconds per increase once muscle memory is established.
- Stitch Yield: Converts 1 active stitch into 2 distinct stitches (a net gain of 1 stitch).
- Visual Footprint: Creates a small, structural horizontal bar (resembling a purl stitch) directly beneath the second stitch.
Step-by-Step Guide to Executing the Knit Front Back (KFB) Increase
Executing the KFB requires precise coordination of needle angles and yarn tension. If you rush the rotation of your right needle, you risk dropping the active loop off the left needle prematurely. Follow these highly detailed, mechanical steps to execute the increase flawlessly.
Step 1: Insert into the Front Loop of the Target Stitch
Begin with your working yarn held in the back of your work, exactly as you would for a standard knit stitch. Insert the tip of your right needle from left to right into the front loop of the first active stitch on your left needle.
The needles should cross with the right needle positioned behind the left needle, forming a stable "X" shape. This is the exact entry point used for a standard knit stitch.
Warning: Do not let the stitch slide down the shaft of the left needle. Keep the target loop positioned on the first half-inch of the needle tip to maintain maximum control and prevent excessive stretching.
Step 2: Wrap and Draw Through the First Loop (Do Not Drop!)
Wrap your working yarn counter-clockwise around the tip of the right needle. Using the tip of the right needle, carefully draw this loop through the stitch on your left needle, bringing the loop out to the front of your work.
Under normal knitting conditions, you would now slide the original stitch off your left needle. For the KFB, you must keep the original stitch securely resting on the left needle.
Pro-Tip: Use the index finger of your left hand to gently press down on the left needle stitch. This prevents it from accidentally sliding off the tip while you perform the next maneuver.
Step 3: Pivot and Insert the Right Needle into the Back Loop
While keeping the original loop on your left needle, swing the tip of your right needle around to the back of your work. You need to insert the tip of the right needle into the back loop (the back leg) of the exact same stitch you just knit.
To do this, guide the tip of your right needle from right to left, inserting it down into the opening of the back loop. The right needle tip will now point toward the left, positioned behind the left needle.
This step twists the stitch, which creates the physical "bar" characteristic of the KFB increase and locks the yarn in place to prevent holes in your fabric.
Step 4: Wrap the Yarn and Draw Through the Back Loop
Wrap the working yarn counter-clockwise around the tip of the right needle, which is now resting behind the left needle. Carefully guide the needle tip to draw this new loop through the back leg of the stitch.
Ensure that you do not catch any plies of the yarn. Use a smooth, continuous motion to pull the loop forward, creating a second active loop on your right needle.
Step 5: Slide the Original Stitch Off the Left Needle
Now that you have successfully created two loops on your right needle from a single stitch on your left needle, you can safely slide the original stitch off the tip of your left needle.
Gently tug the working yarn to snug up both stitches on your right needle. Do not pull too tightly, as this will make working the next row difficult. You should now see one standard knit stitch on the right, followed immediately by a stitch with a small, horizontal collar of yarn wrapped around its base on the left.
Knit front, back, front: kfbf all in the same stitch - tin can knits
Comparative Technical Analysis of Standard Knitting Increases
Choosing the correct increase method impacts both the aesthetics and the structural integrity of your knitwear. The table below compares the KFB with other popular increasing methods so you can make informed decisions when planning your projects.
| Increase Method | Visual Profile | Fabric Directionality | Structural Integrity | Best Fabric Application |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| KFB (Knit Front Back) | Highly visible horizontal bar (resembling a purl bump) at the base. | Neutral; the knit stitch sits right, the bar sits left. | Extremely stable; does not draw yarn from neighboring rows. | Garter stitch, ribbed fabrics, raglan yokes, and toy shaping. |
| M1L (Make 1 Left) | Virtually invisible; a tight, twisted horizontal strand of yarn. | Leans to the left. | High; can slightly tighten surrounding stitches. | Stockinette stitch, sweater sleeves, and lace borders. |
| M1R (Make 1 Right) | Virtually invisible; a tight, twisted horizontal strand of yarn. | Leans to the right. | High; borrows yarn from the strand between stitches. | Mirrored raglan lines and clean stockinette fabric. |
| YO (Yarn Over) | Open, decorative eyelet hole. | Neutral; non-directional. | Low; creates a structural void in the fabric. | Lace patterns, decorative borders, and simple buttonholes. |
| RLI (Right Lifted Increase) | Completely invisible; lifts a stitch from the row below. | Leans to the right. | Very high; seamless integration with no structural distortion. | Underarms, sock toes, and seamless garment shaping. |
Troubleshooting Common KFB Stitch Failures
Even seasoned knitters occasionally experience structural issues when working increases. Below are the most common mechanical errors associated with the KFB, along with their root causes and actionable fixes.
The Back Loop is Too Tight to Insert the Needle
- Root Cause: This occurs when the initial knit stitch (Step 1) is pulled too tightly, wrapping the loop flush against the barrel of the needle. Alternatively, using inelastic fibers like cotton or linen can naturally restrict the stretch of the loop.
- Actionable Fix: When drawing the first loop through in Step 2, pull the loop slightly upward with your right needle tip to enlarge it before attempting to swing around to the back loop. Additionally, ensure you are working on the tapered tips of your needles rather than the wide shafts when making the transfer.
The Original Stitch Accidental Slides Off the Left Needle Prematurely
- Root Cause: A lack of finger anchoring on the left needle, or using excessively slick metal needles with highly slippery silk or bamboo yarns.
- Actionable Fix: If the stitch slips off after you have completed Step 2, immediately use your left needle tip to scoop the dropped loop back up from front to back before it unstitches. For future rows, place your left index finger firmly over the target stitch on the left needle barrel to lock it in place until the right needle has successfully entered the back loop.
A Large, Unsightly Hole Forms Underneath the Increase
- Root Cause: This is caused by pulling the right and left needles too far apart during the pivot step, which stretches the horizontal bar connecting the two stitches. It can also happen if the working yarn tension is dropped completely mid-stitch.
- Actionable Fix: Keep your needle tips close together, touching as much as possible during the rotation. Maintain steady, light tension on the working yarn using your tensioning hand. If the hole has already formed, you can gently use a tapestry needle to distribute the excess slack into neighboring stitches on subsequent rows.
The Horizontal Bar Appears on the Wrong Side of the Work
- Root Cause: Working the KFB on a purl row (PFB) without adjusting the needle insertion angles, or accidentally knitting into the wrong loop sequence.
- Actionable Fix: The KFB naturally places the bar on the side facing you when worked on a knit row. If your pattern calls for an increase on a purl row and you do not want the bar on the public side of your fabric, you must perform a PFB (Purl Front Back) instead, which keeps the purl bump hidden on the wrong side of your project.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does the KFB lean to the left or to the right?
The KFB is generally considered a neutral increase, but it has a slight visual bias. The first stitch created is a clean knit stitch that aligns with the right side of the column, while the second stitch contains the horizontal bar, pushing the visual weight of the increase to the left. For perfectly mirrored garments, designers often pair a KFB with other left-leaning or right-leaning increases.
Can I use the KFB in place of a Make 1 (M1) increase?
While you can technically substitute a KFB for an M1, they are not visually identical. An M1 increase is nearly invisible and does not consume an existing stitch, whereas a KFB creates a highly visible horizontal bar and requires an active stitch to build upon. Substituting KFB for M1 will alter the texture of your fabric and may throw off the placement of surrounding pattern details.
How do I work a KFB on a purl row?
To work this increase on a purl row, you must perform a Purl Front Back (PFB). Purl into the front loop of the stitch as normal but do not drop it off, then swing your needle to purl into the back loop of the same stitch before dropping it from the left needle. This keeps the structural increases consistent across your fabric.
Why is my stitch count incorrect after completing a row of KFB increases?
The most common counting error is forgetting that each KFB consumes one stitch to create two. Knitters often count the horizontal bar as a separate stitch while working, leading to confusion. Always count your loops after completing a row; for every KFB worked, your total stitch count should increase by exactly one.
Is there a way to do a KFB without the visible bump?
No, the horizontal bump is a physical property of knitting into the back loop of a stitch after the front loop. If you want a completely smooth, invisible increase, you should use a Make 1 Left (M1L) or a Right Lifted Increase (RLI) instead of a KFB.
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