How To Kill Crabgrass In Bermuda Grass Without Damaging Your Turf

How To Kill Crabgrass In Bermuda Grass Without Damaging Your Turf

What Kills Bermuda Grass But Not Plants at Ian Dorothy blog

Eradicating crabgrass (Digitaria sanguinalis) in a Bermuda grass lawn requires exploiting the aggressive, warm-season growth habits of Bermuda to choke out the weed while strategically deploying selective pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides. Success relies on precise timing based on soil temperatures rather than calendar dates, ensuring your turf remains dense enough to prevent future weed germination.


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Pre-Operation & Equipment Checklist

Eliminating crabgrass without harming your established Bermuda turf demands disciplined preparation, accurate measurement, and strict adherence to herbicide safety guidelines. Bermuda grass handles aggressive management well, but improper chemical application can cause severe turf yellowing or temporary stunting if environmental thresholds are ignored.



  • Essential Gear, Tools, and Materials:

    • Granular or liquid pre-emergent herbicide (active ingredients like prodiamine, dithiopyr, or pendimethalin).
    • Selective post-emergent herbicide containing quinclorac or, for spot treatments, a dedicated grassy-weed killer safe for Bermuda.
    • Broadcast spreader or calibrated backpack sprayer with a flat-fan nozzle.
    • Soil thermometer to accurately track germination windows.
    • Protective equipment including nitrile gloves, safety glasses, long pants, and closed-toe shoes.
  • Mandatory Prerequisite Knowledge and Standards:

    • Understand the thermal window for crabgrass germination: soil temperatures must sustain 55°F to 60°F at a 4-inch depth for several consecutive days.
    • Recognize that Bermuda grass must be actively growing (fully greened up from winter dormancy) before applying certain post-emergent chemicals.
    • Calculate accurate square footage to avoid under-application (which fails to control the weed) or over-application (which damages turf).
  • Estimated Budget and Duration Benchmarks:

    • Financial investment ranges from $40 to $120 depending on lawn square footage and whether you choose granular bag applications or concentrated liquid formulations.
    • Time commitment requires 1 to 2 hours for initial planning and application, followed by seasonal monitoring spanning spring through late summer.

Step-by-Step Crabgrass Eradication Workflow



Step 1: Monitor Soil Temperatures and Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicide

The most effective way to manage crabgrass is to stop it before it germinates. Use a digital soil probe to monitor soil temperatures at a 4-inch depth. Once temperatures hit 50°F to 52°F, apply your pre-emergent herbicide to catch the first wave of germination.



  • Calibrate your broadcast spreader or sprayer according to the product label instructions to ensure even distribution across the entire Bermuda lawn.
  • Apply granular products to dry turf and water them in immediately with 0.5 inches of irrigation or rainfall to activate the chemical barrier in the top soil layer.
  • If you miss the early spring window, apply a split-application: put down half the annual rate early, followed by the second half 6 to 8 weeks later to maintain a continuous barrier.

Pro-Tip: Do not core aerate your Bermuda lawn after applying a pre-emergent herbicide, as pulling plugs will puncture the chemical barrier and allow crabgrass seeds underneath to push through to the surface.



Step 2: Spot-Treat Escapes with Selective Post-Emergents

Despite your best pre-emergent efforts, stray crabgrass plants will inevitably break through, especially along concrete borders, thin turf patches, or areas washed out by heavy rains. When these weeds reach the 1-to-3-leaf stage or early tillering phase, target them with a selective post-emergent herbicide.



  • Mix a selective herbicide containing quinclorac with a methylated seed oil (MSO) surfactant to help the chemical stick to the waxy crabgrass leaves.
  • Spot-spray individual crabgrass clumps using a hand-pump or backpack sprayer, adjusting the nozzle to a coarse spray to avoid drift onto nearby landscape beds.
  • Avoid mowing the lawn for at least 48 hours before and after the application to maximize leaf surface area for herbicide absorption.

Warning: Never use non-selective herbicides like glyphosate on living Bermuda grass unless you intend to kill the turf alongside the weeds, as it will destroy any green vegetation it touches.



Step 3: Cultural Control Through High-Density Bermuda Maintenance

Chemicals alone will not keep crabgrass out permanently. Bermuda grass spreads via stolons and rhizomes, and a thick, aggressively managed turf canopy naturally blocks sunlight from reaching crabgrass seeds, preventing germination.



  • Mower settings should be kept low—between 1.0 and 2.0 inches for hybrid Bermuda varieties—using sharp mower blades to encourage lateral density.
  • Apply nitrogen fertilizer at a rate of 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet every 4 to 6 weeks during the peak summer growing season to keep the Bermuda vigorous and dominant.
  • Water deeply and infrequently (1 inch of water per week, including rainfall) to encourage deep root growth in the Bermuda while discouraging shallow-rooted weed species.

How to Kill Crabgrass and Recover Your Lawn

How to Kill Crabgrass and Recover Your Lawn

Herbicide Selection and Technical Specifications



Herbicide Active Ingredient Type Primary Mode of Action Best Application Timing Bermuda Safety Profile
Prodiamine Pre-Emergent Root growth inhibition Early Spring (Soil at 55°F) Extremely safe on established Bermuda
Dithiopyr Pre & Early Post Mitosis inhibitor (some early contact) Early Spring to 1-tiller stage Safe on actively growing Bermuda
Quinclorac Post-Emergent Synthetic auxin (disrupts plant growth) 1-leaf to multi-tiller crabgrass Safe on established Bermuda (use MSO)
Glyphosate Non-Selective EPSP synthase inhibitor Total renovation / Spot kill Kills all green Bermuda tissue

Common Site Failures and Field Fixes



  • Root Cause: Applying pre-emergent herbicide too late in the season after crabgrass seeds have already germinated invisibly beneath the soil surface.

    • Actionable Fix: Pivot immediately to a post-emergent herbicide program utilizing quinclorac, and make a note to check soil temperatures much earlier next calendar year.
  • Root Cause: Uneven granular spreader distribution resulting in striped or patchy weed outbreaks.

    • Actionable Fix: Apply half your total product amount walking North-to-South, and apply the second half walking East-to-West for complete, overlap coverage.
  • Root Cause: Thin Bermuda turfgrass canopy caused by deep shade or chronic under-fertilization.

    • Actionable Fix: Prune overhead tree branches to increase direct sunlight exposure to a minimum of 6 to 8 hours daily, and implement a regular summer fertilization and watering schedule.
  • Root Cause: Failure to use a surfactant with liquid post-emergent applications, causing spray droplets to bead up and roll off the waxy crabgrass leaves.

    • Actionable Fix: Always mix a methylated seed oil or non-ionic surfactant into your tank mix at the manufacturer's recommended rate to ensure maximum foliar uptake.

Frequently Asked Questions



When is the exact right time to put down crabgrass preventer on Bermuda grass?

You should apply your pre-emergent herbicide when soil temperatures consistently reach 55°F at a 4-inch depth for three to four consecutive days. Relying on calendar dates is unreliable because spring weather patterns vary drastically from year to year.



Will pre-emergent herbicide harm my existing Bermuda grass?

No, established Bermuda grass tolerates standard pre-emergent herbicides like prodiamine and dithiopyr very well. However, you should avoid applying pre-emergents if you plan to overseed thin areas with turf seeds in the spring, as the chemical barrier will prevent grass seed germination as well.



Can I pull crabgrass by hand instead of using chemicals?

Hand-pulling is effective for isolated weeds in small lawns, but it must be done when the soil is damp to ensure you remove the entire root crown. If you leave pieces of the root system or crown behind, the crabgrass plant will easily regenerate from the remaining tissue.



Why is my post-emergent herbicide not killing the crabgrass?

Mature crabgrass that has developed multiple tillers and seed heads becomes significantly resistant to standard post-emergent rates. You must treat crabgrass when it is young and actively growing, and always include a recommended surfactant to help the chemical penetrate the plant cuticle.



How do I prevent crabgrass from returning next year?

The ultimate defense against crabgrass is maintaining a thick, healthy, and aggressively growing Bermuda turf canopy through proper mowing heights, regular nitrogen fertilization, and deep, infrequent irrigation. Combining cultural density with a reliable two-pass pre-emergent program (spring and fall) will virtually eliminate future outbreaks.

Reclaim Your Lawn Today

Achieving a pristine, weed-free Bermuda lawn requires staying ahead of the germination cycle with precise pre-emergent barriers and aggressive turf management practices. Start monitoring your soil temperatures today to lock out crabgrass before it ever gets a foothold in your landscape.


Best Practices for Killing Crabgrass

Best Practices for Killing Crabgrass

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