Professional Methods For Removing Antlers And Skull Plates From Harvested Deer

Professional Methods For Removing Antlers And Skull Plates From Harvested Deer

Pair of Deer Antlers Medium Sized, Buck Horns Display, Rustic Home ...

Removing antlers from a harvested deer requires precision cuts through the frontal bone to preserve the skull plate or the pedicles while minimizing damage to the antler base. This process necessitates a high-TPI bone saw or a reciprocating saw to achieve a clean, level finish that facilitates stable mounting or taxidermy. Proper execution ensures all brain matter is removed, satisfying Chronic Wasting Disease (CWD) transport regulations and preserving the integrity of the trophy.


Essential Gear and Pre-Procedure Planning for Antler Removal

Before initiating any cuts, a hunter or taxidermist must determine the intended end-use of the antlers. If the goal is a full European mount, the process differs significantly from a simple skull plate removal intended for a plaque mount. For the latter, the focus is on a specific geometric cut that retains enough bone to keep the antlers attached to one another but removes enough excess weight and tissue to make the piece manageable.

The timing of the removal is also critical. While it is possible to remove antlers days after the harvest, performing the task while the skull is fresh prevents the bone from becoming brittle and reduces the difficulty of skinning the hide away from the skull. Furthermore, hunters must be aware of regional wildlife regulations regarding the transportation of brain and spinal tissue, as many jurisdictions mandate that the skull plate be thoroughly cleaned and bleached before crossing state or provincial lines.



Required Equipment and Preparation Checklist



  • Cutting Tools: A fine-tooth hacksaw (24-32 TPI), a dedicated biological bone saw, or a reciprocating saw with a stainless steel "pruning" or "meat" blade.
  • Safety Gear: Heavy-duty rubber or nitrile gloves (8-mil thickness recommended), eye protection to shield against bone fragments, and a particulate mask if using power tools to avoid inhaling bone dust.
  • Skinning Knife: A sharp scalpel or a drop-point hunting knife for reflecting the hide away from the cutting zone.
  • Marking Tool: A carpenter's pencil or a permanent marker to outline the desired cut trajectory on the skull.
  • Stabilization Equipment: A heavy-duty vise or a second person to hold the head securely; any movement during the cut can result in an uneven plate or a broken blade.
  • Estimated Duration: 20 to 45 minutes depending on tool choice and cleaning requirements.
  • Chemicals: Hydrogen peroxide (3% to 12% concentration) for sanitizing the plate and Borax for drying out any remaining connective tissue.

Step-by-Step Technical Execution of Skull Plate Removal



Step 1: Skinning and Exposing the Skull Plate

The first movement involves clearing the workspace. You must remove the skin and hair from the top of the head to expose the bone clearly. Using a sharp knife, make a T-shaped incision starting behind the antlers, running between them, and extending down toward the bridge of the nose. Carefully peel the hide back, exposing the frontal bone and the pedicles (the bony structures where the antlers grow from the skull). Ensure you clear at least two inches of bone around the base of each antler to provide an unobstructed path for the saw.

Warning: Do not attempt to saw through the hair. Deer hair is extremely hollow and coarse; it will gum up the teeth of a fine-tooth saw immediately, leading to jagged cuts and potential tool failure.



Step 2: Mapping the Cut Trajectory

Symmetry is the most important factor for a successful mount. Using your marking tool, draw a line starting approximately one inch behind the antler burrs (the knobby base of the antler). The line should angle downward toward the center of the eye sockets. A common mistake is cutting too shallow, which results in the antlers separating. To maintain a single, solid piece, your cut must pass through the brain cavity. Mark a V-shape or a flat rectangular shape that connects the back of the skull to the bridge of the nose, ensuring the path stays below the pedicles.



Step 3: Initiating the Primary Cut

Position the saw at the rear mark on the skull. If using a hand saw, use long, steady strokes to create a "kerf" or a guide groove. Once the blade is seated, increase pressure. If using a reciprocating saw, start at a low RPM to prevent the blade from "walking" across the smooth surface of the bone. You should aim to cut through the thickest part of the frontal bone.

Pro-Tip: Keep the blade lubricated with a small amount of water or vegetable oil. This reduces heat friction, which prevents the "burnt bone" smell and keeps the blade from losing its temper and becoming dull.



Step 4: Completing the Forward Cut and Separation

Once the rear cut has reached the midpoint of the brain cavity, stop. Move to the front of the skull near the bridge of the nose. Start a second cut that angles upward to meet the first cut inside the skull. By approaching from two angles, you ensure that the plate remains thick and sturdy. Once the two cuts meet, the skull plate and the attached antlers should lift away easily. If there is resistance, do not pry them off; instead, re-insert the saw to clear any remaining bone bridges.



Step 5: Tissue Removal and Brain Cavity Cleaning

After removal, the underside of the skull plate will contain brain matter and connective tissue. Use a flat-head screwdriver or a specialized scraper to remove all soft tissue. This is a mandatory step for CWD compliance. Use a stiff wire brush to scrub the bone until no grease or organic matter remains. For a professional finish, simmer (do not boil) the skull plate in water mixed with a degreasing dish soap for 30 minutes to pull out internal oils that could later cause discoloration or odors.



Step 6: Final Preservation and Bleaching

Once the bone is clean and dry, wrap the bases of the antlers in electrical tape or plastic wrap to protect them. Apply a high-volume developer (hydrogen peroxide cream) to the white bone of the skull plate. Let it sit for 12–24 hours in a warm area. This whitens the bone and kills any lingering bacteria. Rinse thoroughly and allow the plate to dry for 48 hours before attempting to mount it to a wood plaque or taxidermy form.


How to Mount Your Own Deer Antlers

How to Mount Your Own Deer Antlers

Tool Selection and Material Performance Metrics

Choosing the right tool impacts the structural integrity of the bone and the speed of the operation. Below is a comparison of common methods used in both field and shop environments.



Tool Type Precision Level Physical Effort Best Use Case Risk Factor
Hacksaw (24 TPI) Very High High Display-quality trophy mounts Low; very controlled
Bone Saw (Pruning style) Medium Moderate Field dressing/Fast removal Moderate; can splinter bone
Reciprocating Saw Moderate Very Low High-volume processing High; easy to over-cut
Coping Saw Extreme Very High Small game or delicate plates Low; slow progress
Oscillating Multi-Tool High Low Precision surgical-style cuts Low; minimal vibration

Common Removal Failures and Technical Remedies

Experienced hunters occasionally encounter issues during the cutting process due to bone density variations or equipment limitations. Addressing these promptly prevents the loss of the trophy.



  • Blade Binding or Stalling



    • Root Cause: The weight of the antlers is pinching the saw blade as it moves through the skull, or the bone is compressing due to lack of support.
    • Actionable Fix: Insert a small wooden wedge or a flat-head screwdriver into the cut (kerf) behind the blade to keep the gap open. Ensure the head is braced from the bottom, not the sides.
  • Uneven or "Wavy" Skull Plate



    • Root Cause: Changing the angle of the saw mid-cut or failing to secure the deer's head properly.
    • Actionable Fix: Use a belt sander with 60-grit sandpaper to level the bottom of the skull plate after removal. This allows the plate to sit flush against a mounting board.
  • Antler Separation (The "Split Skull")



    • Root Cause: The cut was made too high on the forehead, missing the thickest part of the frontal bone and failing to bridge the two pedicles.
    • Actionable Fix: Drill two small holes into the inner edges of the separated bone pieces and join them using a heavy-gauge copper wire and high-strength epoxy resin. Cover the repair with leather or taxidermy putty during the mounting phase.
  • Biological Contamination/Odors



    • Root Cause: Incomplete removal of the brain matter or failure to degrease the bone, leading to marrow rot.
    • Actionable Fix: Soak the skull plate in a solution of 1 part ammonia to 10 parts water for 48 hours to break down deep-seated fats, then re-bleach with peroxide.

Frequently Asked Questions



Can I use a chainsaw to remove deer antlers?

Using a chainsaw is highly discouraged because the wide kerf of the chain removes too much bone material, and the oil from the chain can permanently stain the antlers and skull plate. Furthermore, the high speed of a chainsaw often leads to shattering the frontal bone rather than cutting it cleanly.



How do I remove antlers if I want to keep the "shed" look?

To remove antlers without the skull plate, you must cut through the pedicle, which is the transition point between the skull and the antler. This is usually done for craft projects or "rattling" antlers. Use a fine-tooth hacksaw and cut horizontally just above the burr, but be aware this significantly reduces the value for traditional taxidermy.



What is the best way to store antlers after they are cut off?

After the skull plate is cleaned and dried, antlers should be stored in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight. High UV exposure will bleach the natural brown color of the antlers, turning them white and chalky over time. If they begin to dry out, a light application of linseed oil or specialized antler restorer can preserve the natural luster.



Is it legal to transport antlers cut from a deer?

In most jurisdictions, it is legal to transport antlers, provided they are completely free of soft tissue, brain matter, and spinal column material. This is a critical measure to prevent the spread of Chronic Wasting Disease. Always check the specific "carcass movement" regulations of the state where the deer was harvested and the states you will be traveling through.



How do I prevent the antlers from falling off the skull plate?

The antlers are naturally fused to the skull plate; they will not fall off unless the bone is cut too thin or becomes rotten. By following the V-cut method and ensuring the plate is at least a quarter-inch thick at its thinnest point, the structural integrity of the antler-to-bone connection remains permanent.

Elevate Your Trophy Presentation

Mastering the technical nuances of antler removal is the first step toward creating a professional-grade mount that lasts a lifetime. By utilizing the correct tools and biological cleaning standards, you ensure your harvest is preserved with the respect and craftsmanship it deserves.


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