How To Attach Trucks To A Skateboard: The Definitive Guide To Professional Mounting And Alignment

How To Attach Trucks To A Skateboard: The Definitive Guide To Professional Mounting And Alignment

Simple Ways to Put Trucks on a Skateboard: 15 Steps

Attaching trucks to a skateboard deck requires aligning the baseplate holes with the deck's mounting patterns, ensuring the kingpins face inward toward each other, and securing the hardware using a staggered cross-tightening sequence. Utilizing standard 1-inch to 1.25-inch mounting bolts and nylon-insert locknuts ensures a vibration-resistant fit that maintains the board's structural integrity and steering geometry.


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Essential Components and Technical Tooling for Truck Installation

Before beginning the installation, it is critical to understand that the connection between the truck baseplate and the wooden deck is the primary stress point of the skateboard. Improper installation can lead to deck delamination, hardware shearing, or unpredictable steering response. You must ensure that your hardware length is compatible with your deck thickness and whether or not you are utilizing riser pads.



Technical Checklist and Benchmarks



  • Essential Hardware: Eight high-tensile steel bolts (standard 10-32 thread) and eight nylon-insert locknuts. Standard sizes range from 7/8" (no risers) to 1.5" (large risers).
  • Precision Tools: A dedicated "skate tool" or a 3/8-inch socket wrench for the nuts, paired with a Phillips-head or 1/8-inch Allen-head screwdriver (depending on your bolt type).
  • Mandatory Knowledge: Recognition of "Kingpin Orientation." The kingpin is the large central bolt holding the truck together; on a standard skateboard, these must face each other (inward).
  • Estimated Duration: 10 to 15 minutes for a complete set.
  • Budget Benchmarks: Hardware sets typically cost between $2.00 and $6.00, while a professional-grade multi-tool ranges from $10.00 to $25.00.

Professional Installation Workflow: From Deck Preparation to Final Torque

The following procedure assumes your deck is already gripped. If the grip tape is freshly applied, you must first clear the mounting holes to ensure the hardware seats correctly against the wood and grip surface.



Step 1: Perforating the Grip Tape

If your deck is newly gripped, the eight mounting holes will be covered. Do not attempt to force the bolts through from the top, as this can tear the grip tape or create "volcanoes" (raised bumps of grip tape) that prevent the bolt head from sitting flush.



  1. Flip the deck so the graphic side (bottom) is facing up.
  2. Use a thin Phillips-head screwdriver or a dedicated grip poker to push through the eight pre-drilled holes from the bottom up through the grip tape.
  3. Flip the deck back over (grip side up). You will see small exit points in the grip tape.
  4. Insert the screwdriver into these exit points from the top and rotate it in a circular motion. This "countersinks" the hole slightly and ensures the bolt head can sit flush with the deck surface.


Step 2: Hardware Insertion and Riser Placement

Properly seating the bolts is essential for a smooth ride. If you use riser pads (plastic blocks used to increase the distance between the wheels and the deck to prevent wheel bite), they must be placed now.



  1. Push all eight bolts through the top of the deck.
  2. If using risers, slide the riser pads onto the bolts from the underside of the deck. Ensure the holes in the riser pads align perfectly with the bolts.
  3. The bolts should stay in place due to the friction of the grip tape. If they fall out, you can place a piece of painter's tape over the heads temporarily.


Step 3: Critical Truck Orientation

This is the most common error in skateboard assembly. Skateboard trucks are designed with specific geometry that dictates how the board turns based on the angle of the hanger.



  1. Pick up your first truck. Locate the kingpin—the largest bolt that houses the rubber bushings.
  2. Place the truck over the four bolts on one end of the board.
  3. The Rule: The kingpins must face the center of the board. This means the bushings and the kingpin nut of the front truck should face the bushings and kingpin nut of the rear truck.
  4. If the kingpins face outward (toward the nose and tail), the skateboard will steer in the opposite direction of your lean, making it nearly impossible to ride safely.


Step 4: Threading the Locknuts

Standard skateboard hardware utilizes nylon-insert locknuts (Nyloc nuts). These nuts have a small nylon ring at the top that creates friction against the bolt threads, preventing the nut from vibrating loose during high-impact landings.



  1. While holding the truck baseplate against the deck with one hand, use your other hand to thread the nuts onto the bolts.
  2. Rotate the nuts clockwise until they are finger-tight.
  3. Repeat this for all eight bolts. At this stage, the trucks will still be loose and wobbly; this is normal.


Step 5: The Staggered Tightening Sequence

To ensure the baseplate is mounted perfectly flat against the deck, you must use a cross-pattern (X-pattern) tightening sequence, similar to how you would tighten the lug nuts on a car tire. This prevents the baseplate from tilting or putting uneven pressure on the deck's wood grain.



  1. Place your screwdriver in the head of the first bolt (top-left) and the 3/8-inch socket on the corresponding nut.
  2. Tighten until the bolt head is nearly flush with the grip tape.
  3. Move to the bottom-right bolt (diagonally opposite) and tighten.
  4. Move to the top-right bolt, then finally the bottom-left.
  5. Continue tightening until the heads of the bolts are pulled slightly below the surface of the grip tape. This is called "countersinking." If the bolts are not flush, they will create pressure points under your feet and can even cause the hardware to snap under stress.

Warning: Do not over-tighten to the point where the wood of the deck begins to crack audibly. The goal is a flush, snug fit where no movement exists between the baseplate and the deck.


Skateboard Practice Trucks at Zelma Harvey blog

Skateboard Practice Trucks at Zelma Harvey blog

Hardware Specifications and Geometric Standards

Choosing the correct hardware is dependent on the technical configuration of your skateboard. The table below outlines the standard requirements for various setups to ensure maximum thread engagement within the nylon locknut.



Setup Configuration Recommended Bolt Length Technical Requirement
Standard (No Risers) 7/8" to 1" Bolt should extend 2-3 threads past the nut.
1/8" Riser Pads 1 1/8" Required to compensate for the added plastic thickness.
1/4" Riser Pads 1 1/4" Prevents "wheel bite" on larger wheel setups (56mm+).
1/2" Longboard Risers 1 1/2" Essential for deep-carve longboard geometries.
Forged Baseplates 7/8" Forged plates are thinner than cast plates, requiring shorter bolts.

Common Mounting Failures and Technical Remediation

Even seasoned skaters encounter issues with hardware and truck mounting. Recognizing the root cause of these failures is essential for maintaining equipment longevity.



  • Scenario: The "Volcano" Effect

    • Root Cause: Forcing the bolt through the grip tape without pre-poking or clearing the hole. This lifts the grip tape and creates a mound.
    • Actionable Fix: Remove the bolt, use a file to sand down the raised grip tape, and use a screwdriver to widen the grip hole before re-inserting the bolt.
  • Scenario: Rattling During High-Speed Vibration

    • Root Cause: The nylon insert in the locknut has worn out, or the bolts were not tightened in a cross-pattern, leading to a microscopic gap between the baseplate and the deck.
    • Actionable Fix: Replace the nuts with fresh nylon-insert locknuts and re-tighten using the X-pattern sequence. If using old hardware, apply a drop of medium-strength thread-locking fluid.
  • Scenario: Hardware Shearing (Bolts Snapping)

    • Root Cause: Under-tightened hardware allows the truck to shift slightly upon impact, creating "shear force" rather than "tension force."
    • Actionable Fix: Ensure bolt heads are countersunk into the deck. Always use Grade 8 or higher steel bolts specifically manufactured for skateboarding.
  • Scenario: The Board Turns the Wrong Way

    • Root Cause: Reversed truck orientation (Kingpins facing outward).
    • Actionable Fix: Remove the nuts, flip the trucks so the kingpins face each other (inward toward the center of the board), and re-install.

Frequently Asked Questions



Why do my skateboard trucks feel loose even after I tightened the mounting bolts?

Mounting bolts secure the truck to the deck, but they do not control how easily the board turns. To stiffen the steering, you must tighten the large kingpin nut located in the center of the truck hanger, which compresses the bushings.



Is it better to use Phillips-head or Allen-head hardware?

This is largely a matter of preference, but Allen-head (hex) bolts are less likely to "strip" or round out over time. However, Phillips-head hardware is more common and can be adjusted with a standard household screwdriver in an emergency.



Do I need to use washers with my skateboard trucks?

Standard skateboard setups do not require washers between the bolt head and the grip tape, nor between the nut and the baseplate. The nylon-insert locknut is designed to grip the baseplate directly, and the bolt head is designed to sink into the wooden deck.



How often should I check my mounting hardware?

You should check your hardware after the first two hours of riding a new setup, as the bolts will "settle" into the wood. After that, a quick check once a month or after significant impact sessions is sufficient to ensure safety.

Optimize Your Ride Quality

Now that your trucks are securely mounted and properly aligned, you are ready to fine-tune your bushings and wheel tension for the perfect ride. A correctly assembled board not only performs better but also significantly reduces the risk of mechanical failure during technical maneuvers.


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SKATEBOARD SOFT TRUCKS - Skateboard Training Trucks, Trampoline Trucks ...

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