Masterclass Guide On How To Apply Cedar Shingles Like A Professional

Applying cedar shingles transforms an exterior with timeless architectural charm and exceptional weather resistance, provided you adhere to strict installation protocols. Achieving a watertight, 30-year wall assembly requires mastering precise exposure calculations, meticulous flashing integration, and a dedicated double-course starter layer.

Pre-Operation & Equipment Checklist

Successful installation of western red or eastern white cedar shingles requires a comprehensive approach to site prep, structural assessment, and material acclimation. Cedar is a living, breathing material that reacts to moisture fluctuations, meaning your substrate and fastening techniques must accommodate natural expansion and contraction.

• Essential gear, tools, and materials: Circular saw with a fine-tooth blade, utility knife, heavy-duty chalk line, stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized ring-shank nails (or a pneumatic coil siding nailer), hammer, tape measure, ledger boards, plumb bob, flashing paper (No. 15 asphalt-saturated felt or house wrap), and Grade A red cedar shingles.
• Mandatory prerequisite knowledge and standards: Familiarity with local building codes, adherence to the Cedar Bureau guidelines regarding shingle grades (Blue Label is required for exterior siding), and verification of a continuous weather-resistive barrier over OSB or plywood sheathing.
• Estimated budget and duration benchmarks: Material costs range from $3.50 to $7.00 per square foot depending on shingle grade and thickness. A standard two-person crew can properly prep, flash, and install approximately 100 to 150 square feet of wall per day.

Step-by-Step Cedar Shingle Installation Workflow

Step 1: Substrate Preparation and Flashing Integration

1. Ensure your exterior wall sheathing is covered with a breathable, code-compliant house wrap or a layer of No. 15 asphalt-saturated felt paper to prevent moisture infiltration.
2. Install corrosion-resistant metal flashing—typically copper, aluminum, or galvanized steel—around all window and door casings, inside and outside corners, and at the foundation line before laying a single shingle.
3. Snap a continuous, level chalk line around the entire perimeter of the building to serve as the baseline for your starter course. Remember that the bottom edge of the starter course should extend at least 1 inch past the foundation sill plate or rim joist to allow proper water shedding.

Warning: Never use standard electro-galvanized nails or non-approved fasteners. Cedar contains natural acids that rapidly corrode standard steel, leading to rust streaks, black stains around nail heads, and eventual shingle detachment.

Step 2: Laying the Double Starter Course

1. Align the bottom edge of your first layer of starter shingles directly with your chalk line. For optimal moisture protection, the starter course must be doubled or even tripled using lower-grade utility shingles or trimmed Blue Label shingles.
2. Maintain a 1/4-inch to 3/8-inch spacing between adjacent shingles in the same course to allow for lateral expansion when the wood absorbs rain or high humidity.
3. Fasten each shingle with two ring-shank nails positioned approximately 3/4 inch from each edge and 1 inch above the exposure line of the upcoming course. Drive nails flush with the wood surface; never countersink them or crush the wood fibers with the hammerhead.

Pro-Tip: Stagger the vertical joints of the second layer of the starter course so they are at least 1 1/2 inches away from the joints of the first layer. This eliminates direct paths for wind-driven rain to reach the underlying house wrap.

Step 3: Calculating Exposure and Snapping Course Lines

1. Determine your desired shingle exposure based on the total height of the wall and the length of your shingles. For standard 16-inch shingles, a 5-inch exposure is the industry standard for walls; 18-inch shingles allow a 5 1/2-inch exposure, and 24-inch shingles accommodate a 7 1/2-inch exposure.
2. Measure the height of your wall from the starter line upward and divide by your target exposure to ensure your final top course lands neatly without requiring awkwardly narrow rips.
3. Snap horizontal chalk lines up the wall every two to three courses to maintain absolute horizontal alignment across windows, gables, and long wall expanses.

Step 4: Installing Subsequent Courses and Managing Corners

1. Lay each successive course by working along your chalk lines, ensuring all vertical gaps (side joints) are offset by a minimum of 1 1/2 inches from the joints in the course directly below them.
2. Double-check that no two joints align within any three consecutive courses. This strict overlapping rule guarantees complete weatherproofing.
3. For outside corners, utilize pre-made corner pieces or manually weave alternating corner shingles using a precise 45-degree miter cut, overlapping them alternately to create a clean, tightly sealed vertical line.

Technical Specifications and Material Classifications

Common Site Failures and Field Fixes

• Root Cause: Black streaks and rust stains bleeding down the face of the shingles.
  
  
  • Actionable Fix: Remove the offending standard steel or low-grade galvanized fasteners immediately and replace them with solid stainless steel (Type 304 or 316) ring-shank nails. Wash the stained wood using an oxalix acid-based wood cleaner formulated specifically for cedar.
• Root Cause: Shingles cupping, splitting, or buckling severely within the first year of installation.
  
  
  • Actionable Fix: The shingles were likely installed while entirely saturated or too tightly butted together. Remove the damaged pieces, cut new replacement shingles with a mandatory 1/4-inch expansion gap, and ensure the back of the siding has adequate air circulation via furring strips if installed over solid concrete or masonry.
• Root Cause: Water infiltration and mold growth around window and door interfaces.
  
  
  • Actionable Fix: Retrofit proper head flashing and self-adhering flashing tape (such as butyl or modified bitumen tape) around the rough openings, ensuring the flashing integrates shingle-style over the house wrap and under the cedar siding layers.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should I treat or seal cedar shingles after installation?

Freshly installed cedar shingles do not require immediate staining or sealing because natural oils within the wood protect it against decay. If you prefer to preserve the warm golden-brown hue, apply a penetrating, oil-based semi-transparent stain with UV inhibitors after the wood has acclimated and dried for a few weeks. Left untreated, cedar will naturally weather to a distinguished, maintenance-free silvery-gray patina over one to two years.

What is the maximum allowable gap between cedar shingles?

You must leave a 1/4-inch to 3/8-inch gap between adjacent shingles during installation. This spacing accounts for natural wood swelling when exposed to rain, fog, and high atmospheric humidity. Failing to leave this expansion room will cause the shingles to buckle, crack, and pop their fasteners as they expand.

Can I use a pneumatic nailer to install cedar siding?

Yes, you can use a pneumatic coil siding nailer, provided you adjust the air pressure and depth settings meticulously. The tool must drive the nail head flush with the surface of the wood without indenting, crushing, or splitting the shingle butt. Always test the gun on a scrap piece of cedar before fastening your wall courses.

Do I need to install furring strips behind cedar wall shingles?

Furring strips are not strictly required if you are installing shingles over a standard weather-resistive barrier attached to plywood or OSB sheathing. However, installing vertical furring strips (rain screen design) creates an essential drainage and ventilation cavity behind the shingles, dramatically increasing the longevity of the entire wall assembly by allowing trapped moisture to escape.

Transform your architectural project with premium western red cedar materials by sourcing certified Blue Label shingles and professional-grade stainless fasteners for your next build today.